A trip to the Azores offers a perfect balance of island lifestyle and European culture amidst beautiful mountains, deep lakes formed by volcanoes, tropical forests, and a variety of ports, beaches, scenic coastlines. Sao Miguel Island is the largest of 9 in the archipelago 900 miles off the coast of Portugal. Punto Delgada, the capital, is a city paved in black volcanic stones and white marble tiles imported from the mainland. Here, the largest port accommodates cruise ships that stop over regularly, their passengers pouring into the city’s restaurants, shops. the military museum situated in the 1522 fort, a formidable stone fortress, the Forte de Sao Bras.
We visited in “winter” of February 2020 just as the ships were canceled, the streets empty of the usual lunchtime wave of shoppers. Camellias bloomed in coiffed gardens, light rain passed through followed by beautiful skies. Island life agreed with us. It has taken until for direct flights to resume, for the post-pandemic world to reopen.
Take a 4×4 Jeep to explore the views from the rim of the volcanoes!
Distinctive black stone-faced buildings line every street, each paved in different patterns. Can’t remember which way to go? which street to turn down? Where to find the name? Look down to the tile!
The talent for cultivating gardens is ubiquitous. Pineapples are grown here. The only tea plantation in Europe is thriving here. We attended the camellia festival, too early for the azaleas of March and April. Highways lined with leafless stick hedges carefully manicured awaiting May and June blooms of hydrangeas.
C Amelia Festival – abundance across from our hotel with lots of crafts for sale too!
For a day in the city, we found a one-hour bus tour that circumnavigated the city. Next, we stopped at a small but over-stocked museum created by Carlos Machado that houses his collection of sea mammals, plant life, unique land animals, and a wide assortment of diverse flora and fauna from these remote islands – the naturalist of his time. If we had one more ounce of energy, we might have seen the military museum situated in the 1522 fort, a formidable stone fortress on the waterfront, the Forte de Sao Bras.
Near Ribiera Grande, the north coast, a stunning modern hotel with private swim pools.
Volcanoes recently formed these islands, geologically speaking. The mountains feature slim rims, deep walls to bowl-shaped lakes. It is a fascinating landscape of lush vegetation around deep blue waters. Therapeutic hot waters spring up from the core of the earth, the heart of a volcano; stained by iron to a brown color is considered healing. Everyone swims in the muddy looking pure stuff. At the deco style Terra Nostra Hotel, find a very large pool gushing with steaming water all year long, perfect on a rainy afternoon.
Chefs are amazing – this is Asian fusion fare!
Each city on the island is new discovery. Riviera Grande, only 20 minutes from the capital, the 2nd largest city, is known for its historic center and northern beaches where windsurfing is a favorite. The town is at the gateway to the crater lake, Lagoa do Fogo, one of 5 on this island.
Hiking is a joy. Maps along the way clearly mark the distances and details of changing elevation. Many trails are wide enough to be accessible by 4-wheel drive jeeps. Local guides cheerfully escort!
Another church
Restaurants are excellent. The local version of mussels is on every menu. Order “cozido” a day in advance. The chef will use a large metal pot with a strong handle. Layers of pork or fish and sausage – your choice – steam in beds of root vegetables, beet greens, potatoes, and cabbage. The whole pot is submerged in the naturally streaming ashes of the volcano floor to cook through the day.
Typical black volcanic stone carved in Portuguese style with plaster walls
Known as the Hawaii of Europe, the Azores are 900 miles from the colonial capital of Lisbon, on the same latitude with Bermuda and the same time zone as Iceland – four hours change from the east coast. A lush paradise of islands, mountains, and pastures, the best times to visit are March through October. Winter months can be windy and rainy, but still beautiful. Summer months are crowded as the European visitors flock to these islands as a relief from the heat.
We suggest a 7-night tour: 2 in Punta Delgada; 2 in Ribiera Grande and 3 nights or more in Furnas at the luxurious deco hotel, Terra Nostra Garden Hotel or equivalent.
With direct flights from Boston, New York, and in-season, Providence RI, direct flights make this a welcome tropical destination.
Typical view of the ocean – looking east in the late afternoon – these skies change all day
A nice little rainbow forming – a raincoat is a good idea – but rarely needed for long
Mountains to the sea! There are many happy sea creatures in these deep waters
The enormous bowl of a volcano is settled with a town, Furnas in its center
The thermal pools burst through the ground to share steam and gasses and hot waters
This is where pots are buried to cook “cozido” layers of food. Each circle claimed by a different restaurant
Ahh 8 hours later
These are mussels here cooked with lots of garlic
Farming the same way still. Milk and beef from the islands is extraordinary. Wheat is brought in by boat for local bread makers. Pineapples sent back on the same boats.
Steep walls of the mountains look straight down to the Sulphur waters.
Cultivated Stream
Azaleas blooming early in one of the many gardens throughout the islands
Follow us 