A 2023 New View Tour to Patagonia
After a very long flight and extended drive from the airport, we are delighted to join the Andrews and the Parrish couples in the adjacent restaurant in a glass atrium with views of the Punta Arenas bay. Friends from years ago when they worked overseas in Switzerland; Sandy & Elly Andrews from New England and Jeremy & Julia Parrish’s from Sussex, England are joining the two of us, Michael and Ramelle on a New View Tour. I have designed the trip with assistance from a Chilean friend who has her travel company here in Punta Arenas assisting with tours to the national parks throughout this long country. It has been a pleasure to work with her; our itinerary is drafted, our fingers are crossed for a great trip!
We receive a warm welcome in the late afternoon at La Yegua Loca Hotel (wild young filly). A driver brought us here from the Punta Arenas airport. He is wearing the classic Chilean version of a Basque beret wool cap tipped casually to the side of his smile. He hoists my weather beaten duffle up a narrow flight of wooden stairs. It feels like I am entering the back of a 3 story Boston tenement house. Exactly. This is a historic Patagonia city house perched on a promontory that views the vessels in the harbor. It is now an inn appointed with examples of sheep farming equipment built into the decor. Plowshares and pitchforks hang from the rafters, troughs for water are overturned to become lights, cowhides are affixed to the walls with worn wooden beams. It is an appealing, welcoming style of yesteryore! The corner gift shop features hand knitted woolen hats, leather aprons worn by the staff, and journals, maps and all sorts of Knick knacks.
Our first departure is very early morning in order to catch the ferry to cross the Straits of Magellan to the island of Tierra del Fuego. Today it is the smaller one which means no place to sit, except the van. The boat is unfortunately in repair for this week. In this way, we begin adapting our expectations, adjusting to the winds, stepping up on deck only briefly to the experience the views across the channel.
We make the stop to see the King Penguins who have decided that their special spot for their colony along this small river strip between the ocean and the mainland quite a distance to their field of green grass. They bob their heads, step and rock and nuzzle their baby penguins in animated pairs. As far away as they are from us, the view is still fascinating. Helpful is the standing binoculars set to see them best. A knowledgeable park ranger finally shows up to add lots of details and Chilean perspective in English. Finally at the Lodge Deseado on a large glacial lake by the same name, we find beautifully appointed cabins within full view of rolling glacial mountains. It will be 5 nights here. The meal is ready we learn. Tonight is a sampling plate. We won’t have to decide a thing. Except where to choose to go tomorrow!
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