Salta

Day 7
February 12, 2014

Our plane arrives in the late afternoon at the Salta airport, just under 4,000 feet. We meet  Hassam, our new guide! We make visual and auditory adjustments to adapt from Anna’s soft blonde beautiful manner to his charming, Lebanese manner.  He meets us with warm hello’s as he tosses our heavy luggage into the back of his tan van that will be our transport for the next four days. In 20 minutes, we are at the hotel!

Hassam is from a Lebanese family, one of the groups that settled here, good a trade, during and after WW2.  He is a new father, an excellent driver and always, a gentleman!

Welcome to Salta, a city of half a million nestled in the northwestern mountainous region of Argentina. Salta means beautiful in Quichua, the language of the Incas; and it means jump in Spanish. We are at the jumping off point for trade between the Grand Columbian countries of Peru and Bolivia to the north and the coast of Buenos Aires hundreds of miles to the southeast. From here, the infamous Rte 40 weaves north and south, much of it still unpaved through canyons and deserts; it is the main thoroughfare connecting over 5,000 kilometers that is the length of Argentina. We’ll be going there soon!

The memorable features in Salta are our hotel, The Legado Mitico (Mythical Legends); the Museum of High Altitude Archeology (MAAM), the Plaza de 9 Julio and the dramatic  San Bernadino mountain only steps from the city.

Legado Mitico Hotel is a welcome change of pace from where we were last night – the hacienda in the vineyard outside of Mendoza . I would definitely stay here again. There is a sister hotel in Buenos Aires to check out, too.

The Mitico was once a fine private residence belonging to Jose Belgrada. It is  five blocks from the famous 9 of Julio square. Each guest room is updated with a decor that includes mixture of paintings, photographs and stories describing their mythical feats! All types of peoples are included: gauchos, poets, merchantmen, women and indians. I remember the writer, Juana Manuele Gorriti; and a poet, Manuel Castill (d.1980) who described the rugged landscape and lifestyle of the gaucho. Gail and Richard’s room is dedicated to all of the Wichi peoples. “Thanks to their millennial wisdom, Wichis made use of the abundant nature around them without destroying it; and they were also able to survive the tough climatic variability of the area. This people knew the world they walked on every day. They also knew the underworld below the ground where the dead lived, and the world above, the sky, where their ancestors lived forever as stars. However, they were completely unaware of the existence of another world, which was completely different from all others, that of the white man. The Wichi legacy is their wise view of the world which vibrates in unison with nature; our challenge is the recovery and preservation of its value”.

Michael and I are staying in the room called La Capitaina for Martina Silva de Gurruchage. She supported and fought for the patriotic ideals of the revolution to gain independence.  “She formed a fervent platoon of soldiers; with them she advanced to meet General Belgrano, who had already engaged in battle. This fearless lady went beyond the limits imposed to the women of her time. Her commitment and passionate devotion have left us the legacy of invaluable exemplary civic-mindedness. “ Wow! It is a wonder I can sleep!

The two spacious libraries downstairs still feel like a private home! Behind big sofas are wide, spacious oil paintings, leather books, and framed photos of the mythical legendary people of Salta!

It has been a long day. By the time we are cleaned up after our travels, it is 9 pm. We enjoy our by-now customary complimentary glass of wine before braving the streets to find a restaurant.

Salta is still bustling tonight when we walk to the hotel’s recommended local stop. On the street outside, the folkloric music is starting up! There are long lists of choices on the menu that all look like red meat and salad to me! Empanada is another very safe bet. They are delicious here. A soccer game is playing on the television.