Day 10
February 14, 2014
James Turrell Museum at Colome Vineyard
After an overnight at Hacienda Molinos and a morning to tour the village of Cachi, we pack into the van for the winding explore to the infamous Donald Hess vineyard, Colome. It is the 7th vineyard he started and it is at the highest altitude. Here he designed a museum in honor of the light by the American artist, James Turrell.
In the remote village of Colome, down winding roads from the small village of Molinos, we will find Hess’s winery and art museum designed and built to exhibit excluively the works of American light artist, James Turrell. We are in the midst of the culture that continues in the traditions of the Inca’s. The village has benefited from the generosity of the Hess Family, the economy of the wine production and the impact of tourist dollars.
What contrasts! In two days we have absorbed a span of time and a rainbow of human cultural art and artifacts across more than 500 years. Most of what we have seen has been displayed for less than 10 years. The winery, the art museum, the archeology museum are all new, each describe life from a different view point: the present, the future and the past! The power of curiosity!
Turrell (b. 1943) is a Californian who attended Pomona College before going to art school in Los Angeles. His light and space installations include the Roden Crater, a natural cinder cone outside Flagstaff Arizona where he spends a good deal of his time now. His installations use beams of artificial light and natural light to create new spaces. His work is admired all over the world. But Colome, Argentina?
Donald Hess, owner of 7 vineyards, lives in Switzerland. He had collected 12 of the artist’s works that consisted of 12 books with designs and instructions that described how to install the light fixtures to recreate the installation! This provoked Hess who wanted to see his art! So he built a museum!
The building is plain, brick with simple, small windows that let in light to each of the nine galleries. In the first room is a large open carefully lit exhibit of Turrell’s drawings displayed. The lights are set at a specially low setting on each drawing bringing a new atmosphere into this space. Then we all proceed down a long corridor to the different light exhibits. The rooms connect to each other. Each has a different color that is a combination of natural light, artificial light and room design. The different lighting creates completely unique experiences in each room. We feel like we are at the edge of a cliff that doesn’t exist. We see a white space that looks like a hole. We transition from one color into blackness that becomes a new experience as our eyes adjust. It is magical.
The natural light in this inaccessible part of the world impressed Hess who was intrigued by the “terroir” for his vineyards. Hess says that he enjoys the long drive here when he returns. He travels for hours throughout the canyons, many of which he owns; the vineyard acreage is massive.
By contrast, when the museum was ready for the art to be installed, Turrell, who has a pilot license, arrived by helicopter, stayed two nights, and left.
The Winery and Vineyards
The Colome Vineyard is known for the torrentes grape that thrives at this altitude. We taste the Torrontes 2013 of 100 per cent torrents grapes. It is a clear light white wine. Aromas of citron combine with tastes including a touch of tropical fruit combine with oregano and apricot. There is an acidic finish! The torrentes are made in stainless steel barrels, not aged in wood.
In the middle of nowhere, we receive the finest hospitality and more beautiful food accompanied by locally produced, world renowned wines.
For the main course of our lunch, we taste the Estate Malbec, 2011. It is aged for 15months in French barrels. The aroma of straw, prune, vanilla combines to make a beautiful bouquet. There are flavors of thyme and oregano. The malbec grape is 85% of this vintage combined with 15% of cabernet. The meal is a round cut of beef with mustard and herbs and tomatios.
After lunch, the “director of euphoria” pours tastes of the reserve wines for the few who are able to taste a little more. With the palate awake and informed; the translation of the wines becomes complex. So many choices! We take the brochure knowing that we can order these exquisite tastes on line!
As we descend to our next hotel in Cafayate tonight, we weave through the arrowhead formations of canyons. We see parrots clustered on bare branches of barren bushes. We see striations of warm toned sandstone, but no vegetation and apparently no rain. It is in the middle of summer here.
For the main course of our lunch, we taste the Estate Malbec, 2011. It is aged for 15months in French barrels. The aroma of straw, prune, vanilla combines to make a beautiful bouquet. There are flavors of thyme and oregano. The malbec grape is 85% of this vintage combined with 15% of cabernet. The meal is a round cut of beef with mustard and herbs and tomatios.
Follow us 