We drive from Bilbao to the inn at our first trailhead in the town of Cabezon. The freeway from the city turns into a narrow road meandering along a river between an uneven railing and a stone cliff that almost scraping off the rear view mirror. Alex, our guide for the drive and “orientation” manages to maintain a breathtaking speed on these, his, roads. “I’ve lived in these mountains my whole life. My kid goes to a little school with not to many others and my wife…” It is raining. We don’t see any views, but the inn keeper is all smiles. We are the first trekkers for the season – May 1st!
Alex sits us around a large table in the “bar” opening up two large topographical maps he had for us to carry. Orange marker lines highlight our trail. There are a couple of “extra optional routes” in addition to the 10 miles expected each day. Maybe not, I think. The elevations are spelled out in a small wire waterproof (luckily) booklet one of us will carry. We expect 2300 meters up, 2600 down, not all in a row. It will be up, down up, down. Can we do it? Well, here I am. I am glad to say now – yes we did!
Alex isn’t done yet. He brings out his own phone, opens to the app he emailed to us for our own phones to download back when we had strong wifi in the city. (I have the wrong app!) He tries to explain, but hours later we are/I am still heads down. Patiently Alex takes each of our phones to set them up. My wrong app has recorded my “trek” since I left Bilbao. I have gone 120 miles. All my local trails are gone. I turn it off, delete the app, reload with name and password. Oh I am tired now – for sure.
Our first meal, we choose the “typical local plate” as Sra smiles gently, again. After a yummy salty thin noodle soup, a huge plate of garbanzo beans with pieces of cow bacon , stew meat and sausage arrives for each of us followed by a big bowl of flan. The red wine we order washes it down – and lots of water right from the tap. Anything green here? Chalk it up to carb-loading.
Our luggage will travel first class on this trip – inn to inn; it’s an option to join them.
By morning, skies are clear to reveal snow capped ranges in 3 directions right from the futon feather bed. Hikers have stayed here for 30 years with Lucille,I learn her name by now, the proprietor, a grandmother, offering dinner at 9 and breakfast at 9. She runs the two story house as if we are family who will all be here over holidays.
For breakfast, as we are eager to get on the trail, Sra. is flexible, serving us by 8:30. Toast, white cake in packets, apple fritters with sugar that look like curled pancakes and thin coffee. We fill our water bottles from the tap to wash down more carbs.
Our boots newly tied over new socks, hiking polls out of the suitcase with day packs carrying extra warmth and rain gear (for good luck), sunblock, hat, etc. etc. I wear a waist pack – no shoulder weight for me!
Ready, set, GO!
OK – a selfie! Sorry!
Trail out of the town is really beautiful climb to a long stretch thru fields and forests.
Hard to leave this first farm – all of this belongs to the Sra at the Posada.
First day – finding heather growing along the shepherds’ paths. Ellie & Sandy check out flora and fauna everywhere. Gentle start.
All sorts of farm animals along the way, but rarely do we see any people! Cows and horses wear thick leather collars with cow bells that resonate across the fields. Soothing.
All week we find the fences & gates are rewired plastic rope that tie to something!
At one turn, we find goats, too, including this large male billy goat with horns in the shadow on the lower left! He is just as skittish as his family, so there is no issue.
Large goat on the left (looked like a yak to me!) is the billy goat, luckily very shy!
Sometimes a cow or horse will come up to their fence for a short conversation – I wish I had a full pocket of carrots! (for me, too!)
Still in the field in town; maybe a dozen calves with their mothers here.
We are in Potes actually earlier than lunchtime (2 pm!) but Casa Cuyo takes us in, serving us a drink, then at the stroke of the hour, out come pre-ordered salads. An unforgettable meal. Energized, we focus for a long haul to Casa Tolle – posada dos!
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