Fort Dobbs State Park in the Davis Mountains of west Texas to Las Cruces, New Mexico:
The state park is perfect! Thank you, Texas. Fort Dobbs has spacious campsites, each situated under beautiful old oak trees along a now dry arroyo that has carved its path through the rolling mountains. We have seen endless repetitions of this geology from the freeways in the last 3 days across West Texas. Now, up close, the deer walk by, a bird feeding station attracts an assortment of visitors to a variety of feeding stations. The park has done a great job with identification posters. We encounter friendly campers walking dogs, enjoying the open skies, and exploring. Our neighbor is staying a week; another couple will be here for two, the max. The license plate assortment confirms the obvious; we are retreating from northern climates.
The park rangers have answered the phone, called me back, and welcomed us with Texas smiles. They offer a copy of a clear map of the site with all the hiking trails. We settle right in under crystal clear skies.
A moon is rising just as the sun drops, about 4:45. Very special. We enjoy dinner in the dark that turns to a moonlight view through the woods from our cozy camper table. Bear sits outside on his long lead with ears perked up. Lots to listen for.
Clean up feels like a breeze as I tuck frying pan and cook pot back in their spots; rinse off the silverware and dinner plates, and set up tomorrow’s coffee pot. Meanwhile, Michael has the camper detached from the car, it’s level, the electric and water are connected saving our battery and tank full for reserve. Finally, all is quiet – there is motion in the silence. No emails or texts, no service of any kind.
We are too tired to drive the 5 miles to the “star show” at the observatory, but will keep this on the list for a return trip. Opened in 1933, we learn The University of Texas McDonald Observatory has 3 telescopes. Situated at the top of Mt. Locke at 6,800 feet, it was the best in the US for decades as West Texas has the clearest skies in the country. When I am back in wfi range, I find their fascinating website: [https://mcdonaldobservatory.org/] .
There are endless trails through the Davis mountains. Remnants of the not so romantic Wild West are found in old forts, cavalry army bases and occasional mission erected in this enormous high desert. What a contrast to the flat over-mined oil soaked asphalt on weathered freeway surfaces 5 lanes wide divided by a median strip plus service roads. Texas features at least 3 east west interstates: 1-10 through Houston, -20 through Dallas and 1-40 through Amarillo: that is a lot of “territory” bi-furcating a once fertile landscape. No more criss-crossing by migrating species, no way for a buffalo to roam around here today.
The next morning, the stillness is replaced by a stiff wind. A park ranger arriving at 7 am has news from the weather stations, reaffirmed by neighbor campers that across the south west, winds are expected by noon over 40 mph. Our light rig is not safe in wind. After a wonderful walk about, we decide to get a jump on the miles to go. (We have told friends to expect us e in Tucson in two days.) As attractive as the state park is, we respect the weather reports.
We pull ourselves up and out of this valley to ascend the road to Mt. Locke, we find our phones blinging as we return to cellular service. The wind prediction is now 65 mile an hour. Other campers are changing their plans, too. We aren’t the first to leave.
We make it until noon against the forces, then check in to a KOA a mile off the road. Convenience 101. I ask for a campsite “with trees” thinking they will help to buffer the wind. Well, not really.
Reports are correct. A large American flag is whipping around its pole with accompanying clatter of the metal hooks. This is not fun, Bear seems to say looking out the open car door from his back seat throne. I give him a tug. Now Buster! He is right again. It’s not fun. En route to the dog park his ears look the flag, whipping about his head as he squints into the air. At least it is warm, so he can perch outside the camper door in the lee, hooked on his long lead, just in case they have cats here. (They do. Cats seem to be prowling around every campground.)
This is the earliest we have ever set up a site. I am relieved to be securely anchored during the batting winds. Other campers trickle in soon after us. A little open time for an afternoon means a nap, a good read, a few emails for the first time in three days, a dinner of fresh spinach and pasta stir fry with a little white wine. Ah, this is the life.
PS
This stop is just past Las Cruces, NM. When headed the other direction last April (west to east) we took the time to drive into town. Las Cruces has a central colonial-style square filled with trees, park benches, and lots of character. This is the home of the University of SW Texas and the restaurants and watering holes reflect this. We had a memorable to-go lunch from La Nueva Casita, [https://www.lanuevacasitacafe.com/]a favorite of students. We were tipped off by an alum! Not today. Too much wind. We are dining in! Hah!
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